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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.